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梦中的岁月

The Home of My Soul

 
 
 

日志

 
 

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ  

2010-05-08 02:13:23|  分类: 驴行天下 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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7. Back to Lhasa

  When back to Lhasa, we took south line the S307 (provincial highway) according to plan to see Yamdrok Lake: one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. Yamdrok Lake is also called Yam Lake for short. Yamdrok, Namutso and Mapam Yumco are listed side by side as the three Holy Lakes of Tibet. Yamdrok is the largest inland lake at northern foot of the Himalayas and it is the most beautiful lake in the southern Tibet. It lies in Langkazi County Lhoka District Tibet and occupies an area of 638 square km, and its surface elevation is 4,441 meters.

We only knew that there was a Yamdrok Lake, but unexpectedly came to Gyangze. Quzha asked if we had seen the Red River Valley, and he said the story of the Red River Valley had taken place in Gyangze. Gyangze had the endless fields of rape flowers and barley, and there were some Tibetan women working in the rape flower fields. Historically, Gyangze was the capital of the ancient Supi tribes. Sontzen Gampo’s farther Gnam-ri slon-rtsan had Supi Tribe at his feet, so Gyangze has become the aristocratic feudatory. Gyangze has been set up for 600 years, a little bit earlier than the city of Shigatse. Being located at the arteries of Sa'gya and Tsang, via Yatung, to Sikkim and Bhutan, and because of its fertile and productive land, it became an important traffic artery of business; and then, developed into an important thoroughfare connecting Tsong and Anterior Tibet. 254 kilometers from Lhasa at the westernmost of Anterior Tibet, Gyangze is an important town of Tibet. Although it is not in the itinerary,Quzha brought us into the county town to visit the Anti-British Monument. We did not go to the famous Baiqoi Monastery, it‘s a pity. On top of a hill which is situated in the center of Gyangze County, there is a castle; it is the famous Gyangze Zongshan Anti-British Battle site───Zongshan Burg* . The Anti-British Emplacement, which was used by the Gyangze people and troops in 1904 to defend the soil of the motherland, is still there. Here, over a century ago, Gyangze soldiers and the people composed a heroic chapter of against foreign aggression, defending the motherland's territory and sovereignty.

  Continue to go forward, we came to the biggest hydropower station in Tibet——the Manla Hydropower Station on Nyang Qu river; then, Sala mining area and Lamina where is 4353 meters above sea level(Quzga told us, they can’t be found on map, and the altitude was shown by GPS). There is a sort of shiny black calcite in Sala mining area; I do not know what mine it is. Along the way, we met many westerners traveling by bike. One of them rode very fast, several kilometers faster than his partners.

On the way, we saw a snow mountain far away. The snow caped mountain and the flocks and herds on the green meadow nearby formed a very beautiful picture. Unfortunately, when Quzha stopped for us to take pictures, the angle had changed and could not keep the both within the view-finder. The mountain is Noijinkangsang. And this was also unexpected. We got to Kharola Glacier, the main glacier of Noijinkangsang, after a long time since we saw Noijinkangsang. Kharola Glacier is situated beside s307, and it is 5560 meters high above sea level. Opposite Kharola Glacier not far away is Mount Kalu which is 6647 meters high above sea level. It is showed by satellite image, there is a big and beautiful glacier lake beyond Kharola glacier and beside Noijinkangsang.

Another fanatical shooting of pictures took place here, at Kharola Glacier. Taking picture here, you should have a rest for at least half a minute after Semi-squatted down for a few seconds to frame and shoot a photo (because of the shortage of oxygen). Some Tibetan children accompany visitors to take photographs and ask for one Yuan each time. We saw some northern women refused to pay and said that they had deleted the photos, but in fact, they did not. In such cases, children have to leave sadly. A little Tibetan girl asked my wife:” Auntie, do you have a pen, can you give me a pen?” She must be a child who likes to learn, so she gave her the only pen we brought with us this time to write travel logs though she had no picture taken with her.

A Brief Introduction to Noijinkangsang

Noijinkangsang has an altitude of 7206 meters and is located at the junction of the three counties: Gyangze, Rinbung and Nagarze ── longitude 90.1 degrees east, latitude 28.9 degrees north; here is the east section of Laguigangri Mountains. Noijinkangsang is huge, and the top is sharp, like eagle's beak. Around the main peak stand several peaks of over 6,000 meters above sea level. Modern glaciers are developing in the vicinity of Noijinkangsang, approximately over 50 glaciers in all and the glacier area is 129 square kilometers. Among them, with the area of 9.4 square kilometers, Kharola glacier is the largest one. Kharola is the highest pass of the highway between Nagarze and Gyangze, 5042 meters above sea level,second only to the Southern Slope of Noijinkangsang, it is the source of Shilongqu ──tributary of Nyang Qu River. The Top of Kharola Glacier is a gently sloping glacier cap, Noijinkangsang is to the north, and the Tuoguolong peak, 6768 meters above sea level, is to the west. The ice slope below 6600 meters is steeper──40 degrees. End of the glacier stretches out two hanging glacier tongues downward. The eastern tongue is about three kilometers long, and elevation of its end is 5233 meters; the western ice tongue is 4.5km long,1.5km wide,and elevation of its end is 5145.

After Kharola Glacier, we went all the way east to Nagarze County Lhoka Prefecture. We had dinner in a small restaurant running by a Sichuan family; both quantity and taste were good and the services were warm and thoughtful, too. Thanks to these hard-working Sichuan people, otherwise, in such a remote and inhospitable place, where can you have such a delicious meal? Elevation of Nagarze County is over 4’000m, higher than the summit of the Jiaozi (sedan chair) Snow Mountain in Yunnan Province. Even if pressure cooker had been used to cook in Jiaozi Snow Mountain, the rice was till rawish; I wonder how the delicious meal was cooked here in Nagarze.

We were soon at Yamdrok Lake after lunch. Water of the Yamdrok Lake is so clear and blue, bluer than the sky of Tibet. We went along the lake for 70k; there are too many views along the way for the eye to take in: blue water, blue sky and white clouds; the snow of the Noijinkangsang peaks and so on can be seen clearly ; breeze blowing from the lake is so refreshing. It likes a fairyland on earth for its picturesque scenery; and, with beautiful scenery of the lake and mountains, it can be called a paradise for travelers and photographers. The lakeside of Yamdrok is good pasture and there are many herds of cattle and wildlife there.  And there are snow pigs in the surrounding mountains of over 5000m above sea level. Wild goats and foxes were encountered occasionally in the Marsh. There are 21 islands, big and small, in the lake, and various kind of birds live on the island. So these made here the largest waterfowl habitat in Tibet. The world's highest pumped storage power station——Yamdrok power station is located here. It is said that, originally, a hydropower station was planed to build here, but later, because Ngapoi Ngawang Jigme did not agree with this, saying it’s harmful to the environment. So, instead of building a hydropower station, a pumped storage power station was built. For we could enjoy the beauty of the Yamdrok Lake today, we should thank Ngapoi Ngawang Jigme for his wise and correct opinion.   

Yamdrok Lake shaped like scorpion,so, its panorama can not be seen from any angle. Yamdrok Lake is a unique natural beauty spot, setting highland lake, Snow Mountains, islands, pastures, hot springs, wildlife and temples as a whole. Here, lake, snowy peaks and blue sky are the things visitors are always enchanted with.

The automobile came to Gambara Pass in the twinkling of an eye. Standing on the top of Mt. Gambara, 5’030m above sea level, and overlooking the southward, we saw Yamdrok Lake like a sapphire setting in the mountains. The blue lake was as smooth as a mirror; white clouds and snowy peaks were reflected in the lake with a wonderful distinctness; the lake and the mountains contrasted finely with each other. 

Here, there were some Tibetans holding Tibetan mastiffs to attract tourists to have a photo taken with their Tibetan mastiffs, 5 Yuan each time, so we did not stay long here.

After the Gambara Pass,the radar station of  Gonggar Airport can be seen faraway on top of Gambara, and the slope becomes very steep. Looking down from the mountain is the same as looking down from a plane. Clouds were casting shadows on the endless mountains beneath our feet stretching to the horizon, how open and magnificent it was! Although the road is asphalt paved, it is more breathtaking than Mt. Jiuwula.

A car of a Sichuan people’s was broken down on the twisting mountain road, and many cars stopped to help him; Quzha also stopped and went to help him, and the car was soon repaired by him.

Quzha was doing the job of a photographer. Whenever the scenery was good, he would slow down or stop to let us take pictures. In Tibet, be it road or rail, where there is road or rail, there will be likely to be Poles on both sides; this interferes with photograph shooting very much. Many photographers went to Tibet have a lot of complaining about this.

It was not far away from Lhasa after climbing over Gambara Pass. When the automobile was near Lhasa, a gale was blowing and dust was filled in the sky; Quzha said this was sand storm. The guy from Wuhan said he would go to the Potala Palace to take pictures of Lhasa’s storm. But when we were in Lhasa, there was no sign of sand storm.

 

8. Goodbye Tibet

We took bus to Gongga Airport next morning. After safety inspection we entered the Gongga Airport which was heard so much before. The whole airport and the boarding lounge looked modernized, and it seemed more advanced than Changbei Airport Nanchang, Jinjiang Airport Fujian and Guilin Airport of few years ago. Taking off and landing frequency of the Airport was more frequent than expected. As to security inspection, checking on the westerners seemed more stringent than the examination of the domestic passengers; for I saw that they had to take off their shoes and belts. I found it very funny seeing them standing on one foot as the cock did and put on their shoes and belts. After obtaining a permission, I photographed an Air Force's largest transport aircraft IL -76 on the apron;the aircraft flied away soon after landing. I had only seen this aircraft in picture before. It looked familiar when I casted a glance at it for the first time, and I realized soon after.

Finally it’s time for boarding, but after boarding we met air traffic controlling, the plane was not allowed to take off. It was suffocating sitting in the fuggy cabin for a long time. The ban was lifted at last and the aircraft slowly taxiing to the runway; Accelerating and then took off. To view the Himalayas from the air has been my long-cherished wish for many years; it is fulfilled at last today.

I would like to sop here, see the pictures please, one picture tells over thousand words.

Good-bye lofty mountains, the endless snow-covered plateau and the boundless Gobi…. The ancient and mysterious Qinghai-Tibet Plateau,I will be back again!

 

 

                                   ——Johnson Luke Yang

 

                                            October 14, 2009

                              

 

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                                     Yamdrok Lake   

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                               Yamdrok Lake  and Noijinkangsang

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                               Yamdrok Lake

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                                  Yamdrok Lake【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月                                                                                                       Noijinkangsang

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

     Mount Kalu【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

 Kharola Glacire

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                                Mount Kalu

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                              Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                               Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                               Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                                   Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                                  Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                         Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                                                                                            Kharola Glacier

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

Gyangze Castle  and the Anti-British Monument

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

Zongshan Burg

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

         Street of  Gyangze County

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

 Zongshan Burg

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

            Rongbuk Glacier View from Mt. Jiuwula

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

       Himalaya Mountains View from Mt. Jiuwula

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

   Zigzag Road of Mt. Jiuwula

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

    Tibetans Live in the Qomolangma Natural Reserve

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

                         The Qomolangma Natural Reserve                  

 

 All Rights Reserved

 梦中的岁月正文图文版权所有

*

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

The crudely fashioned gun used by Tibetan soldiers

        

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

Gyangze castle

        

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅶ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

The massacre monument of Chu gig Gzhung sgo

In 1888, the British Empire launched an invasion war named Mount Lungthur

Battle in China's Tibet for the first time. Mount Lungthur fell into enemy hands. The British force seized Mount Lungthur area and Natang area.

In July, 1903, the British Empire sent Rong Hepeng to lead ten thousand of army, directed by Major General Mcdonald, and started second large-scale military aggression to China's Tibet. On December 12, British army crossed Zelila Mountain and on 13th stationed Renjin. On 21st they seized Pagri area. In January, 1904, England seized more places in Tibet. The battle spear pointed straight to Gyangze. From this time on, the second Ati-British Battle started in Gyangze.

In 1961, Gyangze Zongshan Anti-British Battle site was listed as a national level Cultural Relic Preservation Unit by the State Council. It already became the educational site for the cadre staffs and the young people. In 1994 Tibet Autonomous Region selected it as Gyangze anti-British Battle educational base for the young people. In 1997 Chinese External Affair Department listed it as one of hundred national patriotic education bases.

Gyangze Zongshan Anti-British Battle site as a witness of unyielding fight against foreign aggression will stand still in southwest border of China.

 

 

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