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梦中的岁月

The Home of My Soul

 
 
 

日志

 
 

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅳ  

2010-04-20 16:49:24|  分类: 驴行天下 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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4.       Nyingchi ── Switzerland of the Orient and the paradise of Tibet

We got on board before dawn and took our departure from Lhasa all the way east via Dazi, Maizhokunggar, and Gongbo’gyamda to Bayi Town, the seat of the Nyingchi Administrative Office. The auto went up the Lhasa River to the east; a white gleam was gradually spreading across the sky, bright and glaring; then, gradually turned into beautiful rosy glows, quite different from the morning of inland. It is the spectacle of the plateau with thin air. Kama Village Maizhokunggar County along the road is the birth place of Sontzen Gampo, 90 kilometers from Lhasa. Maizhokunggar is located on the upper-middle reaches of the Lhasa River to the west of Mount Mira in the central Tibet; its average elevation is above 4000 meters and occupies 5512 square kilometers. After crossing the 5013.25 meters’ pass Mira, we got into the territory of Nyingchi. All the way down the slope and the elevation is greatly different from more than 5000 meters to 2,500 meters. We had luncheon in Gongbo'gyamda County. When we were having lunch, a middle-aged local man came to our table to play his musical instrument and sang songs, and then asked for money while chanting “Zha-Xi-De-Le” repeatedly; if you don’t give money to him, he will not go away. In Tibet, Beggars or the ones peddling a variety of turquoise, agate, arts and crafts, fossils and so on can be seen everywhere. After lunch we go on with our journey. Beside the State Road 318, to the north, the former residence of Ngapoi Ngawang Jigme can be seen, fluttering a national flag in front of it.

 

  The Previous bleak landscape disappeared and replaced by dense forests on the precipitous mountains after crossing the boundary of Nyingchi; instead of flocks and herds along the road, Tibetan black pigs ran loose on the grasses beside Niyang River. What was more, there were many large trucks or flatbeds on the highway, all were loaded without exception with huge logs. In the hot sunlight, Soldiers of the timber checkpoint of the Forest Armed Police Force, wearing helmets, stand straight motionlessly in their sentry posts which were similar with sandbag bunkers. From Songduo, the highway was built along the Niyang River. The lake blue water of Niyang is clear and transparent (I have never seen water in rivers and lakes was Lake Blue; the lake blue of swimming pool and landscape pond was artificial painted on the bottom and the wall of the pool), there are many woods covered sandbar islands in the river, the river banks are picturesque and the newly built Transmission towers are endless. Different from other places of Tibet, Nyingchi is warm and humid, soil is fertile, and rich in natural resources; it is the third largest forest district of China, 80% of Tibet's forests are concentrated here. The vast and luxuriant virgin forests reserve rich forestry resources, forest products, rare animals and plant resources. Coexistence of a variety of climatic zones such as tropical, subtropical, temperate and boreal climate formed the peculiar world of snow-capped mountains and forests of Nyingchi. Unique climate and natural environment of Nyingchi have made it concentrating almost all kinds of vegetations existing in the region from Hainan Island to the Arctic. Medog or ( Metok ) National Plant Conservation Zone, Cibagou Rare Animals and Plants Reserve、Bomi Gangxiang Coniferous Forest Reserve, Nyingchi Bajie Conservation Site of Ancient Giant Cypress and so on embodied the basic features of Lyingchi’s forest resources. Mountains, valleys, forests, lakes and rivers form the unique natural landscape of Nyingchi.

There is a famous attraction: Niyang "Mainstay", stands in the water upper reach of the river Niyang, 15 kilometers away from the county town, the Sichuan-Tibet highway is just beside, and the four big Chinese characters──Zhong Liu Di Zhu (mainstay) were written on the megalith. According to the legend, this megalith was the seat for the patron saint of Gongbo'gyamda Gongzundemu to practice Buddhist. The river rushes passionately past the towering rock. There is a pavilion at the Mainstay Scenic Spot and a temporary car park in the vicinity but not very spacious. There were stalls around the park selling small commodities and local products. Autos from the direction of Lhasa come downhill at great speed, people admiring view and take pictures here should pay attention to safety.

  In the afternoon, we went to visit the "World Cypress King Garden “13 kilometers from the county town of Nyingchi, the altitude is 3040 meters. There were many vendors selling Chinese caterpillar fungus and mushrooms at the gateway of the garden. Because it is not large, the door fare is only 15 Yuan per one. In the Park, there are 10 hectares of precious cypress; the average height is 44 meters and 1.58 meters in diameter. Among them, the biggest one is 57 meters in height and 5.8 meters in diameter and is 2600 years old. It is known as the “No. 1 Cypress in China”. According to legend, the tree was “the life tree” of Xinraomibao── the founder of Ben Sect. The tree was bounded at the foot with many Khatags, and many Sutra streamers were hanging in the woods. 

After visiting the garden we took a taxi (the driver is from Sichuan, she has been a taxi driver for three years in Nyingchi) to Bayi Town, the seat of the Nyingchi Administrative Office, and lived in the hostel of Nyingchi Fire Detachment. From the rear window their barracks can be seen, a few soldiers were playing basketball. We had meal in Canton Center in the evening.     

Bayi Town, 2900 meters above sea level, is located beside Niyang River, over 30 kilometers from the confluence of the Yarlungzangbo River and the Niyang River and 400 kilometers from Lhasa. At the very beginning, only several temples and dozens of households here; the People's Liberation Army began economic construction here when Tibet had been peacefully liberated in 1951, therefore it was named so. Few people on the street and the town is nice with the lingering charm of a small town. There are many Villa like buildings, it was said that they were built for the retired “Cadres Sent to Aid Tibet”, and it was said that they lived and worked in Tibet for long time and no longer adapt to low-elevation environment. In such a quiet small town, it is better not to stroll outside after dark.

The next day, we went to Basomtso Lake, an important tourist attraction of Nyingchi. Basomtso Lake is situated in Gongbo'gyamda County Nyingchi. Elevation of the lake’s surface is 3464meters; it is the largest quake lake in eastern Tibet. Crystal clear water, dense forest rounding the lake, surrounded by mountains, and the surface of the water reflecting snow-capped mountains, scenery of the lake is so beautiful. There is a small island on the lake,it is said that the island is floating on the water; there are many cherry trees on the island and red cherries were everywhere on the branches and ground. In the center of the island, there is a Red Sect Monastery: Tsozong Monastery which was built in Tang Dynasty. Near the monastery, there are “Khatag Sinking”, “Peach Hug Pine” and other wonders. Further more, the natural Tibetan Scripture Monument,The Cave Praying for Children where the Lotus Monk practiced Buddhist , Dakini dance hall,intermittently spewing Virgin Spring, "alphabet tree" showing the Tibetan writing on back of the leaves, footprint of King Gesar and hoof print of his mount, etc. The totem of the Red Sect of Lamaism worships is the male and female genitalia; the wooden totems of a male genitalia and a female genital are placed at the entrance of the Monastery. There is a tunnel in the monastery which is the symbol of transmigration, dark and low; getting through it just like transmigrating. And there is another saying: above the tunnel, there are ten thousand Buddhist texts; bending over and getting through the tunnel stands for carrying ten thousand Buddhist texts. Basomtso was a water burial site. Water burial is normally for children under eight years old.

After visiting Basomtso Lake, we galloped back to Lhasa by the same route, and had dinner in a large Sichuan restaurant in the evening. There are many Sichuan people in Lhasa, some of them come to Lhasa in tourist season to make money and back after that.

To be continued

The Mainstay of Niyang River

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅳ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

 

The Lhasa River

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅳ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

 

The Basomtso Lake

【原创】WHERE DASIPHORA FRUTICOSA BLOOMS Ⅳ - 梦中的岁月 - 梦中的岁月

 

 

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